Ethnic City - Ethnic.city: Taj Biryani Indian Cuisine

Variations of the popular mixed rice and meat dish biryani appear in many countries across Middle and Southeast Asia, but it is most closely associated with Indian and Pakistani cuisines. Currently, biryani also seems to be trending at Indian eateries in and around metro Atlanta. One recent addition to Atlanta’s regional Indian restaurant scene — if there is such a thing — is Taj Biryani Indian Cuisine, which opened in an unassuming Smyrna shopping center back in June.

Located near the bustling Nam Dae Mun Farmers Market (also known as Cobb International), in a dated-looking strip mall on Spring Road, Taj’s curb appeal is virtually nonexistent. Inside, sculptures and paintings of Indian deities welcome guests. Beyond the entryway is a bright dining room with warm orange and yellow walls and a long buffet station on the left (an option available for lunch Tuesdays through Sundays for $9.99). Dark wood furniture, beaded hanging light fixtures, and lustrous marble floors create the ambiance of a modern Indian home.

Taj specializes in the rice and meat-centric Hyderabadi cuisine of southeastern India. In fact, many recipes have hardly been altered from in Hyderabad home kitchens. According to World Population Review, Hyderabad is the fourth most populous city in India, with an estimated 8.7 million inhabitants, and has become a fast-emerging hub for the country’s growing IT and pharmaceutical industries. Hyderabad cooking is notable for blending south and north Indian cultures, which is reflected in Taj’s menu.

A Punjabi chef overseeing the north Indian side of the kitchen prepares an extensive selection of home-style curries and tandoori dishes. Chicken kurma ($11.99) has boneless pieces of chicken, simmered in a slightly rich tomato and coconut cream curry, topped with cashews and raisins. For vegetarians the peppery flavor of kadai paneer ($11.99), diced Indian cottage cheese stir-fried with onions and bell peppers, is quite satisfying. Warm crispy naan is comes fresh from the oven to the table, and pairs well with the flavorful entrees.

As the restaurant’s name suggests, though, biryani is Taj’s main focus. Generally speaking, biryani is a one-pot dish layered with meat and rice and seasoned with ginger, garlic, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf, chili, and garam masala. Often it’s garnished with saffron-infused milk, raw or fried onions, cilantro leaves, and sliced boiled eggs. At Taj, choose among chicken, goat, shrimp, or vegetarian versions. All the meat here is halal, and biryani specialties are portioned for at least two people. Each is served with a side of raita (salty yogurt) and shorba (extra curry to add on top of the rice).

The goat dum biryani ($12.49) is cooked in a dum style, which entails covering the pot of rice, meat, and spices with rolled-out wheat dough in place of a lid and steaming over low heat. Once the contents are ready, the dough, now cooked, is removed and the biryani is served immediately. The colorful egg biryani ($8.49) comes with hardboiled eggs cooked in a spicy tomato-based curry mixed with the orange, yellow, and brown rice and garnished with fried onions. Taj’s own creation, a special chicken biryani ($11.49), combines boneless, spicy chicken from the popular south Indian appetizer Chicken 65 and a straightforward chicken biryani entrée all in one dish. The perfectly cooked chicken is tender with just the right amount of spicy heat.

A weekend-only menu features rare south Indian specialties including sweet and sour egg pulusu ($11.99), curry made with tamarind pulp, a pinch of sugar, and mustard and fenugreek seeds. Tangy sorrel leaves — an herb commonly found in the Andhra region of southern India — impart a citrusy flavor to Taj’s gongoora ($15.49), a thick and spicy stew of either lamb or shrimp.

For dessert, try the gulab jamoon ($3.99), deep-fried “doughnut holes” made with milk powder and soaked in sugar syrup, or the customary Hyderabad dessert of apricot compote, qubani ka meetha ($4.99).

Discerning diners will be able to detect that Taj Biryani’s offerings are different from those of most other Indian restaurants. There is a strong emphasis on using good quality ingredients and traditional cooking techniques to create the feel of a homemade meal in a restaurant setting.