Feedbag - The Gift of Fab

Fabiano’s turns sandwiches into an Italian art form

It seems like every time I eat at Fabiano’s Italian Deli, I experience a serious case of sandwich envy. No matter what I’ve ordered, I’m jealous the minute I catch a glimpse of someone else’s meatball sub or mile-high roast beef hoagie. I can’t help it - everything looks so good. Why do I have to settle for just one sandwich?

Therein lies the beauty of being a restaurant critic. It’s my job to try more than one sandwich. The wall-mounted menu is a little intimidating in scope, but an excellent place to start is with the “#1 sandwich,” a combination of prosciutto, capicola and pepperoni. I’m not usually an all-meat-all-the-time kind of girl, but this sandwich doesn’t even need lettuce. Just a few slivers of tomato and - if you’re feeling really decadent - some fresh mozzarella, and you’ve got a truly glorious sandwich. It’s worth making a special trip for.

Hot chicken parmesan, oozing marinara and melted mozzarella, is the kind of sandwich you order once a year and relish every bite of. It’s a heart attack on a hoagie, but totally delicious. A hearty roast beef and cheddar on sourdough, from the selection of “American style” sandwiches, felt downright virtuous by comparison.

Don’t overlook the pasta section of the menu. Fabiano’s Bolognese sauce is thoroughly competent, with just a hint of tomato binding together the tender, slow-cooked meat sauce. Spinach fettuccine noodles were a little gummy, but for $6.25 I’m not going to complain too much. A Caprese salad wasn’t pretty to look at: Tomato and mozzarella were thrown together in an artless heap and drizzled with balsamic and a sprinkling of Italian seasoning. But ugly or not, we fought over the last bite. The tomatoes were juicy-ripe, the mozzarella creamy and luscious. I was less fond of an astringent white bean salad. Vinegar and pepperoncini seemed to overpower the delicate flavor of the beans.

Fabiano’s food tastes like it’s straight out of a corner shop in Queens, but the deli’s trim and tidy interior feels very Atlanta to me. For one thing, there’s a Blockbuster on one side and an Arden’s Garden on the other: not exactly tough-guy material. Inside, the high-top wooden tables are always shiny and clean, and the shelves sport orderly rows of imported pesto and fancy San Marzano tomatoes. The slackers behind the counter are irreverent but friendly. Best of all, it’s a killer bargain. You can fill up, with plenty of leftovers, for less than $20. That’s what I call a fab find.

florence.byrd@creativeloafing.com

That’s the Spirit

On Thurs., April 21, Atkins Park is conducting a vodka tasting featuring Stoli, Absolut, Grey Goose, Ketel One and Skyy. A guest lecturer will be on hand to explain the nuances of each vodka. If your tolerance is low, not to worry - snacks will be provided. Cost is $25 per person. 794 N. Highland Ave. 404-876-7249. www.atkinspark.com.

Flower Power

On Earth Day, Fri., April 22, metro-area Chipotle restaurants will be giving away a packet of wildflower seeds with every “bol” order (a bol is a tortilla-less burrito). Buckhead: 3424 Piedmont Road, 404-869-7921. Poncey-Highland: 718 Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-685-3531. www.chipotle.com.

Culinary Adventuring

Sotto Sotto’s “Tour of Italy” dinner series continues in April with the region of Umbria on Tues., April 26. The series explores Italian regional cuisines with a prix-fixe dinner on the fourth Tuesday of every month. The four-course menu is $39 per person. 313 N. Highland Ave. 404-523-6678. www.sottosottorestaurant.com.

Life on the Line

More than 130 Atlanta restaurants will participate in the 13th annual Dining Out for Life event on Thurs., April 28. Participating restaurants will donate at least 20 percent of the evening’s proceeds to Project Open Hand. Visit www.diningoutforlife.com for a list of restaurants.

Belgian Brews

Meehan’s Public House in Brookhaven will host a beer dinner featuring Brewery Ommegang on Thurs., April 28. The dinner begins at 7 p.m. and is $32 per person, plus tax and gratuity, for a four-course menu. 4058 Peachtree Road. 404-467-9531. www.meehansalehouse.com.

Song of the South

Chef Michael Tuohy of Woodfire Grill will host a Slow Food dinner highlighting regional ingredients Fri., April 29. The menu will include soft shell crabs, Georgia white shrimp, Sequatchie Cove Farm spring lamb, Anson Mills Carolina Gold rice, cheeses from Sweet Grass Dairy, and local organic produce including the season’s first Vidalia onions. The four-course dinner includes wine, tax and gratuity. $85 for Slow Food members, $90 for nonmembers. 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road. 404-347-9055. www.woodfiregrill.com.??






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