Feedbag - Rustic port of call
Portofino offers simples pleasures off Buckhead’s glitzy main drag
A faction of folks who’ve been in Atlanta any length of time tend to look down their noses at Buckhead. It’s so tacky, so overblown. All that conspicuous consumption, all those bad nightclubs. But there’s another side to Buckhead, tucked away off the main drag, where places like Portofino Bistro are right at home.
Portofino sits on a quiet side street off West Paces. You’d never know it was there if you weren’t looking for it (or shopping in one of the ritzy stores nearby). The lovely, leafy patio is the first thing you see: Set up a bit from the street, its rustic stacked stone, elegant white tablecloths and big umbrellas make a great first impression.
As we struggled to wedge ourselves into a parking space on a recent Friday night among the fleet of gleaming luxury SUVs, I could immediately discern the crowd of regulars: middle-aged and affluent, the women well preserved, the men suntanned from the golf course. Snippets of overheard conversation confirmed my suspicions: “My daughter just got back from honeymooning at the Four Seasons in Maui. You simply must go!” As the evening wore on, the conversation wandered to scandalous divorce settlements and a spirited round of Kerry-bashing.
Overly vocal patrons notwithstanding, the simply appointed dining room is charming. With its honeyed hardwoods, starched tablecloths and oversized fireplace, the space is cozy without being confining. Playful architectural touches, like a rose window on one side of the dining room and columns on the other, create visual interest. Lively artwork gives the room a splash of color.
Portofino bills itself as an “American Italian” restaurant, but aside from a few pizzas and pastas on the menu, it’s mostly American. Corn chowder topped with lump crabmeat and fried basil leaves offered a lovely balance of flavors and textures. The sweet crabmeat and fragrant basil added substance and depth to the velvety, mild chowder. An appetizer special of Italian sausages grilled with peppers and onions came with a twist: fontina cheese fondue for dipping. The mellow cheese and spicy-sweet sausages were a knockout combo.
The theme of unexpected, creative pairings continued with entrees. A medium-rare ostrich steak came with a wedge of homey macaroni-and-cheese and haricots verts. If the mac-and-cheese appealed to the kid in me, the juicy, tender-as-filet ostrich was strictly for grown-ups. A dish of seared scallops over a bed of wilted cabbage — the server’s recommendation — was a study in subtle flavors. The mildly sweet cabbage offered just the right balance to the delicate flavor and creamy texture of the scallops.
The service here was just right: attentive, friendly and well informed, but not too formal. Our server actually seemed like she was happy to be there, and happy that we were there. All this, and a reasonable price tag, too. It’s enough to make you forget the negatives of Buckhead.