Feedbag - Cuban Connection (2)

Papi’s on Ponce offers a first-rate lesson in Eastern Cuban cuisine

When will I learn? You’d think that a person who gets paid to eat could show more restraint. When something is set before me, piping-hot from the deep fryer, I simply cannot wait for it to cool to an edible temperature. The consequence? Another roof-of-the-mouth burn. On Saturday night, the culprit was a crackling, steaming-hot empanada from Papi’s, a flamboyant little hole-in-the-wall on Ponce that specializes in East Cuban cuisine.

Splashed with tropical colors, the restaurant’s eye-catching exterior may not prepare you for its bare-bones interior. Papi’s is mostly a takeout joint, with little more than an order counter and a couple of high-top tables inside. Food arrives on Styrofoam plates with plastic silverware.

As for the food: Folks, this is the real thing. Everything we sampled from the menu was clearly made from scratch. Biting into a papa rellena, a mashed-potato ball filled with shredded beef, rolled in bread crumbs and deep-fried, I realized the papas rellenas I’d tried before were mere mockeries of this odd but delicious Cuban specialty. The crispy empanada was also heavenly; filled with a classic Latin combination of cream cheese and guava paste, it could have been dessert. They’d also be great for breakfast.

Papi’s bills itself as East Cuban cuisine, but the differences from typical Cuban are subtle. In place of the more traditional sliced pork on a Cuban sandwich, Papi’s substitutes shredded pork marinated in its “secret recipe” mojo sauce. It’s terrific: The sweet, smoky pork really stands in the hodgepodge of other ingredients on the sandwich. Another specialty is the hallaca, a Cuban take on the tamale. Bits of pork and spicy peppers stud the fragrant, steaming cornmeal filling.

The other sandwich we tried, pan-fried steak topped with sauteed onions and potatoes, was a bit hard to manage. The marinated steak had great flavor, especially in combination with the onions, but it was too tough to eat as a sandwich. Every time I bit into it, I was left with a hunk of beef dangling from my teeth and two slices of Cuban bread in my hands. Not a pretty sight.

The menu lists flan and chocolate chip cookies under the “Desserts” section, but we opted instead for a creamy Cuban milkshake made from mamey, a tropical fruit that tasted to me like a cross between a papaya and a peach. It was a sweet ending to a truly authentic Cuban meal ... and a balm for my scorched mouth. Maybe this time I’ve finally learned my lesson.

florence.byrd@creativeloafing.comThe following restaurants will be serving brunch on Easter Sunday:

Canoe, that perennial special-occasion favorite, will host Easter brunch from 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., with menu items ranging from $8 to $16. The Easter Bunny will be hopping through to entertain the kids. The restaurant’s regular menu will be available for dinner. 4199 Paces Ferry Road. 770-432-2663. www.canoe-atl.com.

At Spice in Midtown, chef Paul Albrecht will be offering a special la carte menu for Easter brunch. 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m. 793 Juniper St. 404-875-4242. www.spicerestaurant.com.

Do Easter Italian-style at Veni Vidi Vici. The restaurant will offer an antipasto buffet, family-style pastas, traditional Easter entrees and festive desserts. Each adult guest will also receive a complimentary glass of Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) with their meal. Cost is $45 per person ($24 for children 6-14). 41 14th St. 404-875-8424. www.buckheadrestaurants.com.

Easter brunch at Woodfire Grill will feature a special la carte menu created by chef Michael Tuohy. Reservations are available from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road. 404-347-9055. www.woodfiregrill.com.

In addition to its regular menu, the Food Studio will offer a three-course menu for $35 from noon-9 p.m. The menu includes crab and avocado vichyssoise, flank steak with poached eggs, seared rainbow trout, chicken frittata and double chocolate bread pudding. A children’s menu will also be available. 887 W. Marietta St. 404-815-6677. www.thefoodstudio.com.

If brunch isn’t your thing, Pasta da Pulcinella will host a special Easter dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. on Easter Sunday. Reservations recommended. 1123 Peachtree Walk. 404-876-1114. www.pastadapulcinella.com.??






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