Mouthful - Steak tartare

CRAFTBAR: If justifying the cost of dining at the upper level of this two-story New York transplant is downright ridiculous in your book, the restaurant on the lower level has prices that are relatively cheaper for dishes that — for the most part — are just as exceptional. Chef Adam Evans finely minces a mix of grass-fed/grain-fed Harris Ranch tenderloin and sirloin before seasoning it with chives, Dijon mustard, minced shallot, lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and a drop of Worcestershire sauce. The three-ounce portion is served in a tiny, round Staub cast-iron pot, topped with a sunshine yellow raw quail egg and a mound of deep golden gaufrette potatoes fried in peanut oil and seasoned with an in-house BBQ seasoning mix. 3376 Peachtree Road. 404-995-7580. www.craftrestaurant.com.

FLIP BURGER BOUTIQUE: While the concept for this modern gourmet burger joint was hatched by Atlanta’s resident mad scientist, chef Richard Blais, chef Mark Nanna deserves most of the credit for making this place the consistently satisfying dining destination it continues to be. Even though Blais has shocked people with items like his foie gras milkshake, Flip’s steak tartare burger is more risqué. The burger is made with hanger steak for its slightly gamier undertones. Instead of Worcestershire sauce, the restaurant uses a powder. And the mixture gets a little kick from a touch of sriracha, lemon juice, garlic and onion. The raw patty is placed on a brioche bun from Alon’s Bakery, dressed with smoked mayo, a sous-vide farm egg, cornichons, pickled shallots, capers and a cluster of frisee. 1587 Howell Mill Road. 404-352-3547. www.flipburgerboutique.com.

HOLEMAN & FINCH PUBLIC HOUSE: When this Buckhead gastropub opened last year, its tartare was too rustic (read: chunky) and overwhelmingly large — tartares that exceed 5 ounces tend to overwhelm even the most passionate lovers of the bistro classic. But a new chef and consistent fine-tuning have yielded a pristine wonder filled with textural delights. The beef is now finely minced, mixed with a touch of mustard, onion, and other accouterments before being formed into a tiny patty and topped with a cluster of freshly made shoestring french fries. The result is a buttery, tangy and crunchy tartare that rivals any other version in town. 2277 Peachtree Road. 404- 948-1175. www.holeman-finch.com.