Cheap Eats - Just Loaf’n: New Orleans-inspired

New joint juggles po-boys and wings

The neighborhoods of Grant Park and Cabbagetown surrounding the intersection of Boulevard and Memorial Drive have a strange dining mix of the fast and the trendy from which to choose, from anonymous diners nestled against convenience stores to the tag team of Agave and Redfish — with Ria’s Bluebird falling somewhere in between.

Providing its own version of fast food is the New Orleans-inspired Just Loaf’n — as in a po-boy loaf — which offers an added twist with its supply of wings. The early result has been a steady draw of commuters, workers and residents from the surrounding neighborhoods.

With a modest dining area of only three tables for those eating in, Just Loaf’n feels equal parts restaurant and food stand. Effort has obviously been made to keep the eatery meticulously clean and bright with New Orleans’ iconic Mardi Gras colors of purple, green and gold. The staff, which includes its Louisiana-born owners, offers service to the persistent thump of zydeco music in the background for added zing.

Boy wonder: The menu, as well, creates just the right mixture of consistency and culinary variation. It seems the natural favorite for those lined at the counter and the outside drive-thru alike is the shrimp po-boy. Like the other po-boy — all available in half, whole or basket form — the shrimp version features large, fresh shellfish dredged lightly in a spicy batter and flash-fried. There is no excess grease and the shrimp are piled on crusty French bread laced with the perfect amount of mayo and Creole mustard. While the half po-boy is plenty for one (at $5.95), try a whole combo of oysters and whiting (rarely seen in New Orleans) if there are two of you. The whole po-boys are huge and are accompanied by your choice of a side, all for around $7.95. The sides include the regular fries and slaw, but far better bets are the jambalaya, dirty rice or red beans.

Wingin’ it: While Just Loaf’n specializes in po-boys and offers a great variety including a fried-turkey version, the wings also are popular; versions include deep-fried, mild, hot, lemon-pepper and Cajun. The N’awlins gumbo is delicious and chock-full of sausage and seafood but, at $7.95 and $10.95, the small portions don’t offer as much bang for the buck as other specials. Try the huge seafood platter, complete with fried catfish, oysters, shrimp, hush puppies and fries for $12.95, to get a little taste of everything. Just Loaf’n also offers three milder kid combos at $3.95 and a few simple desserts (bread pudding, pralines and assorted cookies).

Bang for your breakfast buck: Perhaps the most unusual and best-kept secret is Just Loaf’n’s breakfast. Instead of the regular greasy combo offered at other drive-thrus, here you can actually order shrimp ‘n’ cheese grits, or a breakfast po’boy with smoked sausage, or catfish and eggs on French bread. And for just $2.95-$3.95, this makes for some really cheap eats. They also serve the popular Louisiana brand Community Coffee.