Cheap Eats - Soul soother

Driving out to Luella’s, west of West End, is a bit of a shocker when you’re used to the comfortably gentrified intown neighborhoods. Boarded-up buildings, dilapidated convenience stores and trash-filled empty lots dominate the landscape. It’s bleak over here — it feels like the Atlanta that time forgot. But if you’ve got a good appetite, you’ll be well-rewarded. Luella’s is situated along a leafy stretch of Simpson Road that’s mostly residential, with older but well-kept homes set back from the street. Inside, the restaurant is cheerful and spotlessly clean. The menu is posted on a big board next to the cash register, and two friendly ladies stand behind the hot bar, ready to dish up your heart’s desire.

Healthy Grease?: Luella’s bills itself as a fresh and healthy take on soul food, and though that seems like a bit of a stretch (would you like a side of fries with your fried chicken?) they do at least fry in “healthier” oils that have zero trans fats. Wings and sides are prepared in advance, but fried chicken, shrimp, whiting and pork chops are cooked to order. Fried whiting fillets are as Deep South as it gets, the flaky fish encased in a crunchy batter. A dab of tartar sauce provides tangy contrast.

Blow Your Diet: Fried chicken is as good as you’d hope it to be, but jumbo chicken wings are the real surprise. With the wing tips still attached, they don’t look or taste much like what you’d get at your local sports bar. These are lightly dusted in cornmeal and fried until juicy and golden brown. Black-eyed peas are cooked just right — tender but just this side of mushy. Gooey mac and cheese and chicken-and-rice casserole will take you back to childhood. If it’s available, the special dessert made with crumbled brownies, real whipped cream and mini chocolate chips is a must-try. The lady behind the counter swears it’s worth blowing your diet for.

Doing Mama Proud: The owner, Odie Donald, has big plans for Luella’s. A second location is set to open in November on Campbellton Road, and if things go well, more will open in the future. Mr. Donald conceived Luella’s as a loving tribute to his late mother, a deeply religious woman who raised five strapping sons on heaping helpings of fried chicken, collard greens and black-eyed peas. He’s done his mama proud — this is soul food at its best.