Cheap Eats - On with the show
Showtime Cafe brings Cuban, Southern comforts to Memorial
They say Memorial Drive is one of Atlanta’s next big urban renewal zones. I feel a little skeptical as I drive down the decaying, deserted strip on a Thursday night. And then I see Showtime Cafe, its snazzy orange and blue sign shining like a beacon in the night. The place is brand-spanking new, from the pale brick facade to the welcoming covered patio to the freshly paved parking lot.
Come on in, y’all: We walk in and are greeted by a row of smiling faces behind the hot bar (they’re either really enthusiastic or really relieved to have some business). The place looks just as good inside as it does from the outside. Big, expensive-looking plasma-screen TVs hang from two walls, and a gigantic fish tank teems with colorful fish. Showtime doesn’t seem to have caught on quite yet, as there were only a couple of tables occupied on this particular evening. But they’re also open for breakfast and lunch, and perhaps the locale is less intimidating by the light of day.
Culture clash: On the wall is an extensive list of daily specials, ranging from arroz con pollo and ropa vieja to fried chicken and oxtails. The specials and sides are served cafeteria-style, from a hot bar at the front of the house. Showtime’s concept is Cuban/American, but don’t expect any fusion confusion here. Showtime is down-home, plain and simple; they just happen to have a passion for both Cuban and Southern cooking. Why not offer both on one menu? Beyond the specials, Showtime also offers typical diner fare like sandwiches, burgers and salads.
Sweet home Havana: Cuban-style roast pork, one of the nightly specials, packed a garlicky-tangy mojo punch. The juicy meat shredded easily — no need for a knife. Another Cuban special, rotisserie chicken, tasted as if it had been sitting under a heat lamp for too long. The skin — the best part, in my opinion — had turned from crisp and golden to rubbery. Without its well-seasoned outer layer, the chicken was bland on its own. Oxtails were a little on the fatty side, but they had great flavor and an unctuous, velvety texture.
A lil’ something on the side: I could easily have contented myself to heap my plate full of Showtime’s varied side items. Moros (black beans and rice cooked together) weren’t available when we visited, but plain black beans and rice were an acceptable substitute. I’m always a sucker for plantains, but these were greasy, as fried food tends to get after sitting around for a while. From the Southern side of the menu, zesty macaroni and cheese hit the spot. Too often, mac and cheese is little more than a mushy pile of goo, but here the noodles had bite to them, and so did the sharp cheddar. Next time I’ll try the papas rellenas — decadent-sounding potato puffs filled with seasoned ground beef and deep-fried.
It seems to me that Showtime Cafe is still getting its footing, and I do hope it catches on. If I lived in Cabbagetown, I’d be jumping up and down over another restaurant in the neighborhood.