Cheap Eats - Lean clean machine

Panasía’s spirited cuisine gets lost in sterile surroundings

Our first visit to Panasía (pan-a-CEE’-a) took place on one of those sweltering, breezeless Atlanta days when the car’s AC works only reluctantly. Stepping into this Vietnamese bistro in Roswell feels like sweet relief: The apple green and sunshine yellow dining room is an oasis of calm and cool. Traditionally crafted dolls, vases and prints are hung on the walls just so, and the honey-blond wood chairs look as if they were upholstered hours ago. A refrigerated case housing a huge mango cream cake and a massive Key lime pie gleams like a jeweler’s window. Tables look as if they’ve been set with a T-square.

Shines like the Chrysler building: I’ve never seen a restaurant so immaculately maintained. You can imagine the kitchen is scrubbed within an inch of its life every night. You’ll never find a sprout past its prime or a poorly folded napkin here. But Panasía’s fervent tidiness also makes it a little too neat and ordered: You feel as if you need to watch your posture and eat all your carrots.

The kitchen turns out clean, precise plates without discernable flaws, but some of the food lacks spirit. I want to be tantalized by a heart-stopping rush of flavors and colors, but instead I’m placidly satisfied. For example, it’s hard to find fault with the airy, flaky cha gio (fried spring rolls, $2.95). They’re utterly ungreasy, and the shrimp, crab, cabbage and carrot filling is crisp, sweet and fresh. In place of the traditional vinegary chili-spiked nuoc nam, though, Panasía serves a clear sweet and sour sauce too heavy for the delicate rolls.

A bun after my own heart: The bun ($6.95) hits the spot in a gutsier way, with its chilled vermicelli noodles, threads of carrot, leaves of lettuce and slices of gingery grilled beef. With a splash of the accompanying nuoc nam, it’s light and fresh, like summer in a bowl. The flavors and textures are pure and thrilling in their intensity. The pho bo ($6.95) is a disappointment, however. Its clear, rich beef broth is ruined by a heavy hand with the star anise, clove and nutmeg. Each bite smacks with an overdose of these aromatic spices to the point that I’m reminded of mulled cider. The beef balls in the pho are springy, toothy delights, so I gobble up both them and the grilled beef, leaving most of the broth behind.

sweet ‘n’ smokey: On a second visit, the goi thu du (green papaya and shrimp salad, $4.75) is a tangy, crunchy delight. Slivers of papaya provide a tingle to the shrimp’s sweetness, and a top note of mint adds a feathery touch on the tongue. The juicy ga nuong xa (lemongrass grilled chicken breast with ginger sauce, $8.95), slightly smoky from the grill, is just touched with the citrus herbiness of lemongrass. The accompanying ginger sauce is elusively pungent. Served with white rice, it’s a wonderful way to eat healthy.

On both visits, all other guests were regulars whom owner Ly Bui knew by name. Ly is a warm spirit in a cold dining room, and looked after us enthusiastically. Dining there might be an chilly experience, but the food is nearly flawless, and you’re always more than welcome.

cynthia.wong@creativeloafing.com