Cheap Eats - Cool beans

Matilda Bean takes good food, but not itself, seriously

Tomato-basil tortilla? I’m not so sure about that. I’ve just stepped into Matilda Bean, East Point’s sparkling new burrito joint. Although the place is packed for lunch, I’m afraid the “gourmet” tortilla offerings (whole wheat, spinach, tomato basil) are a sign of the worst sort of Tex-Mex ridiculousness. One glance at the service line, though, and it becomes clear that Matilda Bean takes liberties only with its tortillas. Diners choose from stunningly fresh, traditionally prepared pork, steak, chicken or grilled veggies. There’s no adobo-seared tofu, poblano tartar sauce or contrived barbecue fillings here.

Veterinarian (I mean vegetarian): On both visits, there’s hardly anywhere to sit. Matilda Bean is cheery through and through in a laid-back, lunchtime-refuge-from-the-rat-race way. The interior is bright but not garishly colored, with vintage Cuban and Mexican advertisements gracing the walls and laminated onto tables. Wooden chairs are hand-painted bright blue and adorned with loopy designs. A thoughtfully wide ledge beneath a gleaming metal lunch counter is the perfect place to stash your bags without forgetting them. Service is fast and friendly, and the stoner humor apparent on the wall-mounted menu board is much esteemed. Anyone who creates a menu section called “Veterinarian (I mean vegetarian)” wins big with me.

Say hello to my little friend: The wonderfully named Tony Montana burrito ($5.99) is an immense, meaty delight. Packed with juicy strips of grilled chicken and a choice of seared steak or braised pork, peppers, rice, pinto or refried beans and a choice of salsa, it’s the size of a healthy infant. Eating it feels like participating in a food marathon, but it’s delicious from first to last bite. Pico de gallo is what’s typically associated with the word “salsa”: ripe diced tomato, cilantro, onions and jalapeños dressed with lemon juice. At Matilda Bean, it’s brilliantly fresh and light. This salsa, along with sweet little shrimp, melting spinach and what diners will recognize as the creamy white cheese ubiquitous at Americanized Mexican restaurants, is stuffed into a huge flour tortilla to make the aptly titled My Favorite Quesadilla ($5.99). The shrimp seem to have been cooked in a gallon of butter and yet somehow aren’t greasy but buttery and tender. I ask for a side of the Charro salsa and discover it’s the culinary equivalent of Mace. Oh, it burns so good. A smoky combination of roasted tomatoes and what must be Scotch bonnets, the Charro salsa perfectly cuts through any heaviness the quesadilla might have.

Waltzing Matilda: Children and vegetarians have a wide variety of selections at Matilda Bean as well. A friend’s picky 4-year old is happy with the My Friend Montana ($2.99) kids’ combo of a chicken taco, chips and salsa, drink and a chocolate chip cookie. A strict vegetarian pal is sated by the Mean Green burrito ($5.49). Crammed with grilled peppers, onions, rice, spinach, salsa, sour cream and cheese, the Mean Green turns into two meals for her. As for me, I meant to take it lightly on the second visit. Remembering how much I enjoyed the first outing to Matilda, however, restraint melts and I power down a massive burrito and a hefty quesadilla, gasping and sighing all the way home.

cynthia.wong@creativeloafing.com