Food Feature: Inaction Jackson

Moseying around Mississippi’s capital without much of my own

I guess I’m a born wanderer.

As soon as I learned to walk I just took off, never worrying about getting lost. One time, after searching for over an hour, my frantic mom found me inside a circular clothes rack at Rich’s playing with my Matchbox cars. When she said I had been lost, I calmly replied that I wasn’t lost at all — I’d been right there all along.

So I don’t mind much that my 9-to-5 job as a historian takes me to lots of out-of-the-way places in the Southeast, and occasionally beyond. Unfortunately, I get no lavish expense account, just a modest per diem that puts me in search of cheap fun and a clean hotel room. This fits well with my Scuzzy Traveler ethic: “Know where you are and be a part of it.” Local bars and barbecue places tell you a lot more about a place than downtown “malls,” tourist sites or a Bennigan’s.

Since it’s located in the center of the state on a giant drainage ditch of a river, Jackson, Miss., can’t take advantage of the floating casinos that have become the single largest contributor to the state’s economy. That’s OK. The capital city is the struggling cultural center of a state struggling to find its cultural center. There’s a decent museum there that recently featured exhibits on Versailles and the Splendors of Spain, along with historic buildings and a number of sites associated with the Civil Rights movement. But here are a few less touristy suggestions:

Located downtown near the state museum and close to the intersection of Pearl and State streets, Hal’s and Mal’s is a large restaurant/brewery/music club in an old cotton warehouse next to long-abandoned train tracks. I’m usually around early in the week when things are slow, but some pretty decent acts come through there, including New Orleans bar regulars. The house-brewed beers are passable, but the Cajun food is surprisingly good. A plate of etouffee is suitably spicy and satisfying. Be sure to check out the Elvis-themed men’s room, where the walls are lined with flattering quotes about the King from the likes of Elvis Costello and Little Richard. Be forewarned, the place is closed Monday nights.

A low-key watering hole in a cool old brick building, George Street Grocery can be found on George Street (natch), just off North West. It’s a fine place to unwind after a hard day of deed-searching and lineage-linking at the courthouse. I’ve often had the corner of the bar to myself, where I can watch as a rotating cast of characters rolls through, some just for a drink or two, before heading home to the wife or wherever.

George Street is a great place to listen to off-the-wall social commentary. On a night soon after 9-11, things got interesting when a genuinely nice older gentleman struck up a conversation with the guy next to him, who was three-sheets-to-the-wind in a hurricane. I can’t recall much of the subject matter, but suffice it to say they both had some interesting views on foreign policy. When the drunk guy began making sense, I started to worry. Ah, good times at the old watering hole. That’s what you get here, no preening, no fancy glassware, no fusion food, just rickety tables and neon beer signs.

A man’s gotta eat as well as drink, and a fine stop in Jackson is Frank’s World Famous Biscuits. It’s one of those old-time breakfast places that you hope will never go away. A homey atmosphere and yummy, six-sided biscuits attract all kinds: black, white, rich and poor. Pictures of the titular owner, Frank Latham, with various celebrities like B.B. King and Sidney Poitier line the walls in the anteroom. Checked tablecloths and no-nonsense decor are found in the several small dining rooms. Most of the food is only so-so, but the biscuits and meats are salty, greasy, artery-clogging heaven. The coffee’s good, too. Breakfast is served all day, but at lunch they also have meat-and-three offerings like meatloaf or chicken-and-dumplings.

Blue Cafe, a modernized diner, is a great stop for lunch. The stainless steel counters and sky-blue walls covered with music posters of Elvis (he’s indeed everywhere in Jackson) set the retro-modern theme of the place. The pie case over the prep counter is filled with Elvis memorabilia, including an iron with Elvis’ picture on the bottom and the words, “I’m steaming hot for Elvis.”

The menu is retro-modern, too. You can get the usual sandwiches and burgers, but you also can get a portabella mushroom sandwich or a tuna steak platter. No fried chicken, though. On my last visit, the special was mahi-mahi, available as a plate, a sandwich, or in a salad. They have homemade soups (the chicken and andouille sausage was great) and large salads like grilled chicken and a salmon Caesar. I couldn’t resist the chocolate chip bourbon pecan pie. Yeah, it was as good as it sounds. The prices are a little steep — I ended up dropping $12 for lunch, which is pretty extreme for the Scuzzy Traveler — but everything is fresh and well prepared. And portions are so big I didn’t even need dinner, so I figure it’s worth it.

For a reasonably priced place to stay, try the Best Western (actually in Pearl, Miss.) just a couple of miles east of town off I-20. While not exactly bargain basement, this is about as swanky a room as you’ll find for $50. The tacky modern decor is cheesy, but what the hell? You get a fridge, a microwave, a coffee maker, and a large good-quality TV. Plus, you can order movies — including hardcore porn — on your credit card with no hassles (or so it says).

So, whether you’re in Jackson for a football game or museum tour, on business, or by accident on the way to somewhere better, you’ll know more about where you are, and be a part of it, without much bank.

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